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This is my first time here and am glad this place exists as am in need of some information rather quickly. I am on the verge of buying a 1986-88 Model GPZ 1000 RX and am hoping that someone may let me know exactly whereabouts on the engine that I can find the engine number as I will be needing to do an encumbered vehicle check before I decide to buy the bike. I don't want to pull the whole fairing off looking for the engine number and would prefer to simply remove a service port cover on the fairing once I know where the engine number is. I noticed that the Chassis number is up behind the headlamp assembly and that there is a modification number on the outer left hand side of the lower frame so am thinking that maybe a modification has been registered to the bike but have no idea what it could be yet..

I am not familiar with this model of bike at all and plan to restore it over the next 6 months. I am still unable to work out which workshop manual covers the GPZ 1000 RX and will be needing one of those so if anyone knows which manual covers it and where I may acquire one I would be grateful if you could please let me know. You must be logged in to rate posts Pete. This post is not being displayed.

Super Spammer Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma: Posted: 13:24 - 02 Jun 2007 Post subject. Er, I think it has a hydraulic clutch. & the hose enters the case on the opposite side to the clutch. At least thats how it is on my ZRX which is essentially the same engine. LOL (MISSION SUCCESSFUL!!!). It was a head scratcher I will admit as am used to much more basic older styled bikes (R series BMW etc) with a simple sheathed wire clutch pulley cable etc.

At first I thought the clutch cable for the GPZ1000RX wasn't there and instead that the brake fluid reservior on the clutch lever assembly there was a fancyass albiet well engineered resevior for the rear brake or something. Certainly is an interesting machine. The 1000RX has some fairing damage and a few missing bits/damaged parts and is generally a bit rough (brushstroked paintjob on the tank. Grundig Sonoclock 410 Manual Woodworkers.

I kinda like them rattier looking bikes anyway (it's a fashion thing!!. So long as they are safe that is the mainthing. A nice artist airbrushjob would be nice to spruce up this tank though)). I will get to hear it idling and take it around the block later this week!

As the owner is away with the key at the moment. I had a difficult time getting the engine number as it was directly underneath/behind some of the outer frame (there was no need to remove any of the fairing service ports to get at the engine number after all. The engine number was indeed on top of the rear crankcase on the righthandside. I eventually realised if I got a strong light source on the left side of the bike and shone it through to the right-hand side where I was straining my eyes to view the engine number that I could just read the number at select angles.

Just to make double certain I had recorded the engine number accurately I shaved some fine carbon/lead shavings from a pencil and gently rubbed them into the stamped engine number recesses. I then got a strip of matt-invisible sticky tape and pressed down till it was all stuck on firmly on the engine number area, clear tape probably wouldn't have worked as well as isn't as sticky/flexible as matt/invisible tape. Then I removed the tape and stuck it down onto white paper so I could read the serial number the right way around instead of mirror image and also to preserve the carbon copy image between the back of the sticky tape and the paper permanently.

It worked real good and confirmed the engine number was as I had glimpsed it etc. (don't know if anyone has had to go to these elaborate lengths before but I really wanted to make sure I had the correct serial number) It looks like the mod plate on the bike is just for a dual to solo conversion for cheaper rego but I will get everything sorted with the department of motor transport and the encumbered vehicle registrar tomorrow and then hopefully I will be ready to put a holding deposit down while I quickly scrounge some dough to pay the remainder. Looks like about $1000 (plus elbow grease) to get it back to ready to road-register condition and is about a $1000 to buy as it is. Will know more soon as need to test-ride it next. I will send a few pics here if I buy the bike as I noticed there isn't too much info or pics of this machine about on the internet.